MITZONE Upgrade Aluminum Valve Covers Compatible with Chevrolet Cruze Sonic Trax Volt Buick Encore Cadillac ELR 2011-2019 1.4L White

This fixed my wife's 2016 Chevy Cruze Limited. It was actually an easy install. It came with the gasket pre-installed. I think the hardest part was prying the old one off (which really wasn't that difficult - I just pried it off with a flat head screwdriver). I did have to re-use the old oil fill cap and funnel. That thing between the valve cover itself and the oil fill cap (I'm calling is a funnel, for lack of a better word) does come off. There's a clip that you have to pry up a bit to get it up about 3/4", then the funnel unscrews from the valve cover. I haven't seen any vids that show this step, but it comes of relatively easily. No need to break it. I wish I had removed it before taking the cover off, though. Would have been easier than trying to do it one handed while trying not to get oil all over the place.Anyway, this was one of the easiest repairs I've done. I'm happy, wife's happy, all's good.

Not sure why they designed this valve cover with a non removable valve but they did. Internal leak will cause a number of issues with engine. Quick check of valve is to put your finger over square hole of valve. Engine will change the way it’s running and you’ll hear a vacuum leak at that port as well. Common problem with 1.4 engine. Good luck Recommend this part

-2013 chevy sonic 1.4l- i Installed the unit perfectly fine. Drove the car for about 20 minutes and the car started misfiring, and occasionally I'd hear a tapping sound. Got the car home and ran a compression test, and noticed cylinder 3 had 0 compression. I take the valve cover off and discover that 4 of the phillips head screws that hold part of the inside of the valve cover together had loosened themselves and fallen into the valve train, and one of the rocker arms had been forced off one the lifters partially, holding the valve open. Haven't repaired yet so I'm not sure if the valve was bent or not yet, but beware, this valve cover could easily trash an engine!

Fits the specs, easily installed. No leak whatsoever. Good quality product for the price 👍.

2014 Chevy Cruze started whistling LOUD at the beginning of last week. At first I thought it was a part of a Rage Against the Machine song I was listening to on the radio (LOL!), but alas, it turns out it was coming from the engine compartment.Engage: YouTube Shade tree Mechanic Mode!A bit of google searching and YouTube browsing later, and I was able to diagnose the issue as a bad PCV valve on my 2014 Chevy Cruze LTZ. I was just brushing up near 96K miles, and apparently all the 1.4 L EcoTec engines produced by GM are destined to blow the PCV valve...not a matter of "if" but WHEN. My PCV valve had apparently had enough, so I found this product and it had great ratings and at a good value. I had heard that dealership wanted ~$100 for parts and another couple hundred (~$300) for labor, so I was determined to save the cash...There are plenty of step-by-step videos online that show you exactly how to make this swap. If you have a decent tool set and any mechanical inclination, you CAN do this. It's not that hard...I'd give it a 4/10 on difficulty scale. If I was doing it a 2nd time, it would probably take me less than 40 min. 1st time around it took around 1.5 hrs, but I was really taking my time, too.A few notes of importance:-When prying off the old cover, use a PLASTIC putty knife to free up the old seal. If you use a metal putty knife or scraper, you risk damaging the surface, which would of course lead to later oil leakage and nobody wants that.-To give extra leverage getting the old cover off, insert the PLASTIC putty knife as far as you can, and then use a thin flathead screwdriver ON TOP of the putty knife (so you're putting pressure on the putty knife with the screwdriver and NOT the metal flat mating surface), and gently but firmly pry upwards. That should release the seal and allow you to remove the old cover successfully.-Wipe down the metal mating surface to remove the crankcase oil before seating the new cover & seal. I used isopropyl alcohol and paper towels to get it clean.-Make sure to use Black RTV sealant on the seam of where the crankcase meets the timing belt area. It should be pretty evident where, because there should be the remnants of the old sealant there, which you'll need to scrape off (with that plastic putty knife!) before applying the new black RTV.-GET YOUR TORQUE CORRECT. The specs for this are 71 INCH LBS (not FT LBS!), which isn't a ton of pressure - just past hand tight. Don't guess on this, and definitely don't over-torque it. IF YOU OVER TORQUE you're destined for an expensive trip to the mechanic.-Blow out the bolt holes with compressed air to get any oil runoff out of the threaded area. Oil is not compressible, and will result in you over-torqueing the bolts, leading to unequal seal and eventual oil leakage, and that expensive mechanic trip as mentioned above...-If you need to reset the Check-Engine Light, just remove the negative cable from the battery, and go open the drivers door and press the brake pedal for 30 sec. That will drain all the stored electric energy, and reset the CEL. Make sure to follow the instructions on the dash after you start back up...the Chevy Cruze makes you roll down the drivers window and then back up (odd), but that gets everthing back to normal operating condition.